Something Has Happened to My RMIR Program

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:17 am

Sorry, I gave up when you said DIY. I'll jump back in when you get a replacement cable from them or eBay, preferably. Sounds like yours is kaput if you get nothing in device mgr.

Sig is good to know. RM should work fine with that.

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:03 pm

I've still gotten no response from DIY. I ordered the cable from eBay that you suggested. The reason I resisted, I'd already waited more than a week (now almost two) with a malfunctioning remote, so I hoped I could get the DIY one working. It takes 'til July for the one from China to get here. Also, that one has individual sockets that must be placed on the appropriate pins exactly right (a much greater chance of error). I think the sockets are numbered. Do they go on the corresponding pin numbers? I understand the pin numbering.

Here is a picture of my connector:

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:12 pm

Here's the correct pin-out for that cable:

https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 670#p115670

Only connect 4 of them. Once you confirm it's connected correctly, you may want to superglue all 6 together and clip the 2 unused ones.

Much of the programming can be done manually if you need to get it working right away. Post your devices and what you want to accomplish, and we can probably get something going for you.

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:10 pm

The frustration of this process is so great, even with you guys help, I'm surprised anyone continues to the end.

I had used this method in January to change my Comcast remote. But, when I tried to use it again the RMIR program wouldn't work. When I got that working, the cable wouldn't work. I received a replacement cable from DIY today, it produces the Windows USB connection sound and is recognized in the Device Manager But, it has the yellow exclamation point and nothing can contact the remote or the cable electronics. I reinstalled the driver DIY linked to in their ad. No luck. I had Windows go on the web and update the driver. After searching the web for about 10 seconds Windows reported that the correct driver is installed. I still get the

in Device manager:

Note that it says it's using Comm Port 4.

I tried to use the Chip Checker that comes with the driver package and it gives this:

I'm not versed in this controller modification system, but I'm a pretty savvy PC person and I'm reaching the end of what my nervous system can handle.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:37 pm

I still recommend you use the driver linked on DIY's site. There are tons of Prolific drivers and counterfeit chips out there and, hence, many incompatibilities. I've run into similar problems with other Prolific hardware. Uninstall the device in device manager first.

It's really up to DIY to get that cable working, as only they know exactly what hardware they used and can direct you to the most appropriate driver.

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 12:00 pm

When I said in my last post:

I reinstalled the driver DIY linked to in their ad.

I meant I had used the driver linked to at the bottom of the page with the cable ad. I had installed it when trying to get the previous cable to work so it was there when I connected the replacement cable. But, when it didn't work I uninstalled it and reinstalled it. Their documentation says you can just let Windows download and install the correct driver. That's why I tried the Windows update described in my last post.

I have to confess the choices on the page were a little unclear. Here's a screen capture. I highlighted the one I chose.

Here's the page they link to

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:33 pm

Problem is it's a TIAO, yet Windows installed a Prolific driver which clearly doesn't work. I don't know what else to say to convince you.

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Sun Jun 21, 2015 10:46 am

Actually Windows didn't install it. This is the filename of the driver installation file I downloaded from the DIY link shown above:

PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.8.19.exe

If it's the wrong driver, DIY directed me to download the wrong driver.

Windows simply confirmed that's it's the right driver.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Sun Jun 21, 2015 12:21 pm

On the product page, go to the site listed at the bottom.

EDIT: I see that links to the same driver that failed before. The DIY folks are the only ones who can really help you with this. I'm grateful they are one of the few still making JP1 hardware, but I do wish they would step up and support their customers. We on this forum can't do it.

EDIT2: I did a little more digging. It's possible the TIAO uses an FTDI chip instead of Prolific. I'm grasping at straws, but maybe an FTDI driver would be worth a try. Otherwise I'm out of ideas, besides buying a cable known to work, like a genuine FTDI or one from Tommy.

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:55 am

mdavej wrote:It's possible the TIAO uses an FTDI chip instead of Prolific

Do you know where I can get a driver for an FTDI chip?

The people at DIY seem to be brain dead.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:54 am

Here are the FTDI drivers:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 2:21 pm

I removed the Prolific driver. Installed the FTDI drivers and reconnected the cable. Windows reinstalled the Prolific driver.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 2:38 pm

Try this. R-click the Prolific device in device manager, go to properties and change the port to something else (COM5 or above). What does the first property page say about the driver load status?

i_am_jim · Post by **i_am_jim** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 3:15 pm

I changed it to Com5. It still shows the exclamation point in a yellow triangle

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 3:31 pm

I'm out of ideas.