Setting X10 control of lights

sabre · Post by **sabre** » Sun May 23, 2004 12:34 pm

Hi all,

I tried using the X10-hacked on my 8910 to control the lights for the X10 home automoation ("firecracker"). But it does not seem to work. Is the code for such a device, or am i way off. added the protocol from the file as well.

thanks

Post by **The Robman** » Sun May 23, 2004 12:45 pm

I don't know what a Firecracker is, but to use an IR remote to control X10, you need to have an X10 IR543 box to convert IR signals into X10 signals.

Wheelie4 · Post by **Wheelie4** » Sun May 23, 2004 12:53 pm

Firecracker is just the software along with the Firecracker Computer Interface to allow X-10 control from the computer. The Robman is right, you need the IR543 or IR543AH command console. It receives the X-10 IR signal from the remote and converts it to the X-10 protocol and sends it to the modules over the electrcal lines.

sabre · Post by **sabre** » Mon May 24, 2004 7:35 pm

ok, thanks

Seems i have the x-10 powerhouse, and the transceiver module is TM751.

I imagine this does not have any code. Thanks for the help.

Post by **The Robman** » Mon May 24, 2004 7:40 pm

If that's an RF-to-X10 transceiver you won't be able to control it using an IR remote, you will need an IR-to-X10 transceiver to do that, and it's model number is IR543. You can get one for $20 from homeautomationnet.com

Mark Pierson · Post by **Mark Pierson** » Mon May 24, 2004 7:43 pm

sabre wrote:...the transceiver module is TM751.

I imagine this does not have any code.

The TM751 in an RF (radio frequency) device that can only be operated by the dedicated X10 remotes and controllers. The IR543 is an X10 controller that takes an IR (infrared) signal and converts it to the X10 powerline commands that are sent to the individual modules.

sabre · Post by **sabre** » Mon May 24, 2004 7:57 pm

Thanks guys. Not really worth the expense given that the X-10 remote and transceiver was free ($5 for shipping).

Post by **The Robman** » Mon May 24, 2004 9:58 pm

Depends on how you look at it. If you want to use X10 to control your lights, then it's worth it. I have an IR543 box so I can use my JP1 remote to turn all the lights on and off, and dim them, etc. It's great.

Herbie · Post by **Herbie** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 8:46 am

I have an IR543 just so I can use X-10 to turn my fireplace on and off from the remote. (via an X10 universal module)

maxse · Post by **maxse** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 1:02 am

Rob a quick question. Which actual X10 dimmers did u use to control the lighting. It seems to me that they cost about $70. Sinc eur using IR anyway, wouldnt it just makes sense fo u to have IR dimmer to dim ur lights for like $25?

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 6:42 am

I use these wall switch dimmers ($12.99) and these appliance modules ($12.99), along with a $20 IR543

maxse · Post by **maxse** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:52 am

thanks Rob. The remote wall swich though it doesnt say its X10 compatible, and they are out of stock. Do u know any other stores that might sell something like this in thie price range. Id prefer for it actually have a slider or something on th switch itself. Thanks a lot byt he way for answering my other posts as well. You are really a great guy for helping every1 out like that.

Could tell me though whats the benefit of using X10 with the adapter as opposed to a regular IR wall dimmer?

*EDIT* Sorry Rob. By the way with that Dimmer switch. Will it be able to memorize 2 preset modes? So lets say when I press play. I want the light to slowly dim to off. Then when I press pause I want the lights to slowly fade to medium, and then when I press stop I want them to slowly fade to completly on. Will I be able to do that with this switch? Thanks a bunch again man. ur the best.

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:42 pm

"Plug & Power" is Radio Shack's re-branded X10 line, so their stuff is compatible with X10 branded stuff.

I have updated the wall switch link to one that is in stock. The cheap switches just have an ON/OFF button on the switch itself, you need to use the remote or the IR543 box to actually dim or brighten the lights.

As it appears that you are really keen to do this without using X10 or a converter box, maybe you should check out the David Steele web site where for $30 you can get the RCD-1107 which is an IR controlled wall switch and remote. Actually, for just $23 you can get the switch without a remote and just use the upgrade that I saved in the file section.

The main drawback of using switches like these rather than X10 switches, is that you will need to point the remote at the switch itself, which may not be in your line of sight when you are sitting in front of your TV. With X10, you can position the IR543 in amongst the rest of your gear so regardless of where your light switches are positioned, you can control them with your JP1 remote.

And no, you can't make X10 switches remember settings.

maxse · Post by **maxse** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:59 pm

ok great Thanks Rob. Nice of you to create a seperate forum for this X10 stuff too. I just ordered the IR543 like you said, hopefully it will come in soon. I still have a question though:
I want the lights to be at a "low" level when I press pause, then fade to a "full" level when I press the stop button on my remote, finally fading to off when I press play. How can I do that with the radio shack X10 switches? Or will I need to get a different kind of switch, or will I need a speratly controlled X10 module that will dim to these different settings? Od do I program my remote to send a certain intensity?

Sorry about all these questions but Im just trying to learn, I think im getting most of it though. Thanks again.

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 1:59 pm

Like I said before, X10 isn't programmed to remember settings, so there's no automatic way to do what you want. The best you can do is experiment to see if you can come up with a work around.

For example, regardless of what level the lights are currently at, if you turn them off and then on, they will come on with full brightness. You could then include enough presses of the VOL DOWN (ie, dim) button to get them down to the required level.