Jim, have you opened your OCAP up yet?
I suggest that you do. The locations for missing components will be immediately evident to you by inspection. With Binky's data linked above, you should be able to convert your remote to a learner.
You could also convert it to have all of the backlighting LEDs, but I think the button sheet is not sufficiently translucent to make that worthwile.
WTB: ATLAS DVR Learning Remote
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Capn Trips
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- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:56 am
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
OK, I cracked open the remote today, and it looks like the components I need (THANKS, Binky!) will total a bit under $3.50. Since I need to place an order anyway, I'm going to try this. I will start a new thread with the results once I get the components and get them installed.
RE: Backlighting. My remote is already backlit, and I agree that the sheet of a non-backlit remote would most likely not be translucent enough.
Jim
RE: Backlighting. My remote is already backlit, and I agree that the sheet of a non-backlit remote would most likely not be translucent enough.
Jim
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Capn Trips
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- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:56 am
So you have a BACKLIT, NON-LEARNER OCAP? That's the first one of those I have heard of. Could you please provide any info on the Silkscreened label on the bottom case and on the battery compartment label to support updating this chart?jherrick wrote:RE: Backlighting. My remote is already backlit, and I agree that the sheet of a non-backlit remote would most likely not be translucent enough.
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
Yup. The silkscreen on the back of the remote (behind the circular section) says 1056B01. The battery compartment label says 1056BC1-BXX-001-0001-001-R. Beneath that is the code C074605.Capn Trips wrote:So you have a BACKLIT, NON-LEARNER OCAP? That's the first one of those I have heard of. Could you please provide any info on the Silkscreened label on the bottom case and on the battery compartment label to support updating this chart?
I am missing almost all of the components that binky listed in his chart, but 2 of the components he has listed are in my remote at a different value. I have R35, but the value is 104, or 100k Ohms, and I have R3 (which is labeled R1 on my remote), and it is a 103, or 10k Ohms.
Unless I am doing something terribly wrong, I don't have a learner. I press the SETUP until I get 2 blinks, then I press 975. Press the device mode to learn to, press the key to learn to, and the device button blinks rapidly. When I transmit the signal from factory remote, I don't get the 2 blink confirmation. I just get one blink of the device button. I have tried multiple signals, multiple devices, but I am missing the components for learning, so I guess until I get those I have a backlit, non-learner.
Jim
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Tommy Tyler
- Expert
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- Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 11:48 am
- Location: Denver mountains
Jim,
I don't think you're doing anything terribly wrong, but don't be too hard on your remote. It has a brain that WANTS to learn, else the processor would not blink the LED rapidly while waiting for an input. I think the final single blink means it listened but nobody taught it anything. The problem is probably just that the learning circuit is not complete. As for the two components you mentioned, 104 means a 1, a zero, and four more zeroes, or 100K. Likewise 103 means 10K.
I don't think you're doing anything terribly wrong, but don't be too hard on your remote. It has a brain that WANTS to learn, else the processor would not blink the LED rapidly while waiting for an input. I think the final single blink means it listened but nobody taught it anything. The problem is probably just that the learning circuit is not complete. As for the two components you mentioned, 104 means a 1, a zero, and four more zeroes, or 100K. Likewise 103 means 10K.
That's what I figured. I'll be getting the components and installing them, then we'll see how hard I am on it!Tommy Tyler wrote:Jim,
I don't think you're doing anything terribly wrong, but don't be too hard on your remote. It has a brain that WANTS to learn, else the processor would not blink the LED rapidly while waiting for an input. I think the final single blink means it listened but nobody taught it anything. The problem is probably just that the learning circuit is not complete.
Yup. Like I said above. But in binky's chart, his R35 is 10k, not like my 100k. His R1/R3 is 100 ohm, mine is 10k.Tommy Tyler wrote:As for the two components you mentioned, 104 means a 1, a zero, and four more zeroes, or 100K. Likewise 103 means 10K.
Jim
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jrussell234
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:15 pm
- Location: San Diego
Atlas 11055 Learning.
I am fairly sure any Atlas URC or Cable URC Model 1055 having an extra '1', ie, 11055, in its Model number is a Learning Remote. In addition, any Model 1056 with and 'L' suffix is a Learning Remote, ie, M1056L
JP1 site list of JP1 enabled remotes shows Cox Cable Model 7820B as being Learning. I have one of these, and like a previous commenter about a 1056, it tries by blinking rapidly with SETUP 975 and the push of a Device and Remote Button you want to learn, but when the teaching button on the originally device remote is pressed, it makes no difference, the blinking is always about 5 seconds and finishes with a long blink. I have tried with several original device remotes and same results, no luck.
Label number on this Cox Remote is 7820ABP... It has the JP1.3 connector, and as the JP1 Site chart listed, this should be the B and should be a Learner, as opposed to a 7820 with a JP1.2 connector??
JP1 site list of JP1 enabled remotes shows Cox Cable Model 7820B as being Learning. I have one of these, and like a previous commenter about a 1056, it tries by blinking rapidly with SETUP 975 and the push of a Device and Remote Button you want to learn, but when the teaching button on the originally device remote is pressed, it makes no difference, the blinking is always about 5 seconds and finishes with a long blink. I have tried with several original device remotes and same results, no luck.
Label number on this Cox Remote is 7820ABP... It has the JP1.3 connector, and as the JP1 Site chart listed, this should be the B and should be a Learner, as opposed to a 7820 with a JP1.2 connector??